Dakar: Center of French and West African Culture

Having studied French since the sixth grade, I somehow always managed to have French teachers or professors who were obsessed with Senegal. This was fine by me, as it meant an incredible amount of wonderful Senegalese music, poetry and art studied in my classes. Senegal, and Dakar in particular, has often been referred to as the center of West African or French African culture. Thus I was beyond excited at the opportunity to see and hear Senegalese art and music in person.

During our ten days in Senegal we managed to have two wonderful opportunities to listen to live music performed by famous Senegalese musicians. The first was a free concert by Cheikh Lo at a wonderful open-air club called Just For U. About half of the IEDP group was there to see his incredible performance. Cheikh Lo builds his music from Dakar's dominant pop sound, mbalax, but throws in elements of salsa, Zairean Congolese rumba, folk, and jazz. Lo's natty dreads and notable spirituality signify him as Baye Fall, a mystic brotherhood within the Mourides [the dominant sect of Senegalese Islam]. Listening to his raspy, yet soulful voice while enjoying a Flag beer and the warm breeze was a spectacular experience for us all.

The second concert was performed by Seun Kuti - the youngest son of the famous Nigerian afrobeat pioneer Fela Kuti - held at the French Cultural Center on Friday night. A handful of us were able to make this concert after our afternoon and evening on Ile de Goree. The concert was aid to be amazing, with Seun Kuti proving to be as dynamic and energetic as expected.

Senegalese art, unlike music performances, came to us throughout our entire stay in Senegal. Street hawkers with Senegalese cloth, drums, masks, paintings and purses were always in sight if not walking next to you bargaining; markets were teeming with more of the same for tourists to fill up their second and third suitcase with. The ahrdest part for someone traveling to Africa for the first time was distinuishing what was made in Senegal and was considered "Senegalese" as opposed to brought in from Mali, Cameroon or Nigeria for instance.

The only thing we did not have a chance to see was some of the famous Senegalese dancing. At least I had been able to see the Senegalese musician Youssef N'Dour at the University of Michigan this past November and was able to watch a number of Senegalese dancers compete on stage.